Source:FB
Ramai orang dok panggil soklan nih bola tanggung...letih otai2 SBM nak jawab..so kita buat sedkit doc. untuk kesenangan masa depan..Selagi Thailand & Singapore masih wujud..soklan nih mesti akan timbul..kalu depa tanya rujuk kat sini...
nak tukar moto siam kar Singapore ke Motor Malaysia boleh.....
Paling penting skali ialah AP
AP nih biasa diberikan kepada 3 pihak saja kalu x silap....
1. Pengedar Moto & Kereta
2. Student Oversea
3. Pekerja Malaysia yg kerja di oversea
Syarat nak apply AP ada dibawah :
Kena Isi Borang Kastam JK69.
Borang tersebut terdiri daripada tiga salinan berkarbon dan oleh itu tidak boleh dimuat turun dari laman web.
Borang berkenaan boleh dibeli daripada Kedai Percetakan Nasional (M) Sdn Bhd, Jalan Chan Sow Lin, Kuala Lumpur (Tel : 03-92212022 / Fax :03-92220690)
Benda2 Wajib Kena Ada :
1) Geran Moto Asal : kena boh nama sendiri
bab geran moto tu kalu nak tukar nama sendiri JPJ Siam @ Singapore akan minta salinan pasport & surat pengesahan majikan hang keja kat Siam @ Singapore....kena bayar duty kat depa juga..
ramai yg fail benda nih...trutama moto siam...dok boh nama siam melayu....kelentong JPJ roadblock kata adik bradik dia punya...heheh
2) Surat Tawaran Kerja atau Surat Tawaran Belajar
3) Surat berenti kerja & Surat Habis Belajar
4) Lesen....x dak lesen x bleh apply AP
5) Resit Belian motor...kalu dari direct owner..minta owner sign kertas putih nama dia & ic/pasppot dia atas kertas tu....
6) Polisi Insurans Luar Negeri
Lepas ada suma 6 benda tuh..(kalu x silap saya)...kena pi apply AP plak...AP nih kena minta kat MITI....kena bayar yey..bukan free...
****RALAT: baru dpt info AP untuk student adalah percuma.
Bila dah dapat AP.......
bawa AP ke pejabat KASTAM
****kalu kastam dok tanya moto dok mana...jgn pasal2 dok jawab ada kat bawah....nanti kena angkut.....kata dok obersea yey...
Kena isi Borang Kastam No.1
tetapi sebaik-baiknya hubungi pejabat Kastam terdekat untuk mendapatkan kepastian) dengan menyertakan dokumen-dokumen sokongan utama seperti permit (AP) dan kad pendaftaran asal kenderaan.
KASTAM akan caj moto ikut jadual yg telah ditetapkan...ada kiraan depa sendiri...pon kena ribu-riban juga....
Contoh kiraan boleh ddapti DOKUMEN sebelah...ada saya buat contoh...
PUSPAKOM
Lepas Selesai KASTAM....kena pi PUSPAKOM....caj jugak mana free la nih...tang nih depa check no. chasis Enjin sama tak ngan geran asal dan borang kastam....
lepas PUSPAKOM lulus...kena pi JPJ pulak...bawa semua dokumen yang telah diluluskan daripada MITI dan Kastam pas tu apply no. pendaftaran moto.....
bila siap suma....tahniah moto anda jadi warganegara MALAYSIA yg sah......
ini saja sikit info sy dpt bantu....
Ok guys, nie apa yg aku baru dpt in BLACK-N-WHITE setelah aku menulis kpd dorang semalam, at least better than when hear verbally from the officer. Things may changed in the future, aku tak tau :dontknow: .
In short, alamat di-SGP diPERLUKAN. So, sesiapa yg ada kawan / saudara mcm ISI dgn KUKU kat SGP, bolehlah cuba, kalau berhajat. Dtg sendiri utk buat penukaran tersebut is the best. Masa yg diperlukan utk perkara2 tersebut, mungkin memerlukan dalam 2 – 3 jam secara keseluruhan, utk buat insurance, antar inspection sekali kalau perlu, kalau tak perlu ok lah, tak payah. Pastu ke LTA utk tukar nama (lebih baik dtg bersama owner yg kita nak beli motor tersebut, pasal IC dorang pun di-perlukan jugak).
Soal persetujuan jual beli motor dgn owner tu adalah soal lain, itu sendiri punya arranged lah, pd hari sebelumnya ker, pd minggu sebelumnya ker. Biasanya bila dah ada persetujuan, pakai air lior ajer tak laku. Nak jugak kena taruk 2-3 ratus sebagai booking fees serta surat perjanjian yg ringkas, disimpan oleh owner & buyer each. Selalunya aku buat SMS exchanges sahaja, dgn penerangan yg secara ringkas. Rasanya benda2 mcm gini dah kukuh sebagai bukti akan persetujuan jual beli tersebut. So far so good on my part. Baru owner akan kasi salinan logcard-nya utk kita buat insurance pd waktu yg lebih awal. Tanpa melihat salinan logcard, insurance company tak boleh terima. Masa kat LTA nanti, sementara menunggu # giliran kita naik, sebelum ke-kaunter, bayarlah owner tu sepenuhnya (owner tak perlu bersama kalau nak buat insurance, tak payah lah buang masa dorang).
Kalau pakai runner, form tu perlu di-isi & ditandatangani oleh si-runner tu & IC kedua2 si-penjual & pembeli (serta IC si-runner tu) di-perlukan, sebagai pengesahan bahawa dia di-wakilkan oleh ke-dua pehak.
Perkara2/barang2 yg perlu;
1 - both owner & buyer IC (rasanya jika alamat SGP di-perlukan, pemilek alamat tu serta IC-nya sekali MESTI nak ada bersama, kan? Ni kira logik lah ). Semua yg terlibat ada sama pun bagus jugak rasanya supaya senang bersoal jawab dgn LTA jika perlu nanti.
2 - Form yg dah di-isi & di-signed.
3 - Insurance.
4 - Surat inspection (kalau motor tu perlu menjalani inspection lah). Inspection cuma sub-$20 sahaja.
5 - DUIT (untuk buat transfer, dlm <$100 gitu & utk extend Road Tax, jika perlu).
Lagi yg perlu di-ingat, selalunya surat menyurat dorang (government body) ni very brief sekali. Ya lah dorang got to be on the safe side. Takut nanti bila dah sampai kat kaunter, duit dah bayar pd owner, dorang mintak work permitlah, surat sekolah menengahlah, surat berkhatanlah, surat cukur bululah dll. Kalau argue lebih2 nanti, MUNGKIN dorang boleh keluarkan clause itu & ini ... yg tu semua jgn salah kan aku huh ... aku sekadar berkongsi apa2 info yg aku tahu sahaja.
Cuma SATU yg PALING aku takuti kalau2 ia terjadi 9-bulan 10-hari kemudian; yang menunggang happy2, yg kasi tonggeng, tunggang langgang. Mana tau yg isi jadi anjing, yg kuku jadi kucing .... silap aribulan rumah si-‘alamat’ kat SGP tu kena ketuk pintunya tetengah malam pasal motor tak bawak balik utk di-inspection lah, road tax dah mati lah, motor terlibat dlm kemalangan yg serius lah, mak bapak awek yg kita bonceng tu mintak kita bertanggeng jawab lah dan apa2 lagi lah :dontknow:
Semua-nya sendiri mau ingat lah huhhhh :pray:
-------------------------------------------
Our Ref: LTA/XXX/XX/XXX/XX.XXXX Date : 05-Aug-2009 Tel : 1800 2255 582 Fax : 6553 5329
We refer to your enquiry on the above and wish to inform you that foreigners may own a Singapore registered vehicle. However, foreigners who owned a Singapore-registered vehicle must provide a local address in Singapore for all correspondences with the Authority.
For more information on buying of vehicle in Singapore, please visit our ONE.MOTORING Portal under the following:
We hope the information clarifies and that everything is in order. Should you need further assistance, please let us know.
Yours sincerely, Xxxxxxx Xxx Executive Service Officer Customer Relations Customer Services Division Vehicle & Transit Licensing Group Land Transport Authority
Kalau nak beli moto kat S'pore make sure: 1. Nama tukar dgn nama sendiri dalam geran moto. 2. Insurans pun nama sendiri and guna alamat sendiri yg kat M'sia. Ada org kata tak boleh..sebenarnya boleh. 2nd rider tu kalau boleh letak la nama member2 kita kat M'sia. Jgn guna nama org S'pore. Kalau banyak duit boleh beli polisi insuran 1st party (Comprensive) or 2nd party. Kat S'pore ada insurans 2nd party. 3. Kalau boleh elakkan guna khidmat pintu belakang utk buat urusan seperti inspection, roadtax dsb sbb ada kes yang kena tipu oleh runner.
Soalan: Kalau tak menjadi keberatan bolehkah saya bertanya jika Nama & alamat (malaysia) bro yg diGeran itu, bro lakukan sendiri di-counter LTA di-tingkat dua di-Sin Ming Drive itu ker atau sekadar di-beri oleh teman / runner bro dari Temasik? :think: Kalau bro buat sendiri di-kaunter LTA, syukur lah :pray:
Kalau part insurance ni, memang boleh letak nama sendiri, kerana syarikat insurance ni adalah syarikat commercial (kewangan). Asal masuk duit, dorang OK ajer :read: ... lagi satu, motor yg dah abis utang nie, syarikat insurance hanya boleh kasi 2nd or 3rd party only. 2nd part = fire & thief + 3rd party claim, motor bro yg involve dlm accident tu, bro kena repair sendiri :tension: . 3rd party pulak, tanpa fire & thief. 1st party ni biasanya jika motor tu masih dlm hutang. Kalau motor tu hilang semasa dlm utang, insurance akan cover syarikat pemuitang tu & bro terlepas dari tanggungan bayaran bulanan-nya ... Al-Kisah
Jawapan:Setakat ni memang saya buat sendiri. Sendiri pegi kat Sin Ming Industrial Rd LTA HQ, Kaunter LTA tingkat 2. Walau tak selalu berurusan takat ni moto saya kalau nak buat inspection or bayar Road tax tak pernah lg upah runner suruh buatkan. Kalau sesat kat Sg baru call member budak S'pore mintak direction kat sana. Kalau inspection buat kat VICOM kat area Sin Ming Rd gak. Senang buat sekali harung. Cuma baru ni je agak payah sikit sbb nak clearkan saman kena g Police Cantonment Complex kat Warrant Enforcement Unit, pas tu g URA Center kat Maxwell Rd baru dapat settle saman. Biasanya takat renew road tax n Inspection buat kat Sin Ming Drive Rd je. Renew insurans biasa buat kat NTUC income kat Ubi avenue. Kalau nak g Kelantan Rd tu tak dpt lg gi sendiri kalau member budak Sg tak guide. Maklumlah..kat Sg jalan payah nak hafal..nama jalan banyak nama pelik2..tak mcm KL..
Tentang alamat kat geran or kat cover note insurans ada lebih baik n secure geran guna alamat S'pore kalau ada sbb senang kalau polis S'pore nak hantar saman or warrant, reminder latter dsb sbb kalau guna alamat M'sia takut tak sampai. Dalam geran masa buat transfer ownership alamat KL guna sebagai Alternet address kalau2 alamat kat S'pore tak sampai kat tangan owner. Sebenarnya boleh guna alamat Malaysia kat dlm geran tp untuk vehicle yang tak ada hutang kat bank2 Sg and lagi senang kalau ada working permit. Ni apa yang sy sendiri tanya pegawai LTA kat Sg..cuma ramai yang kata tak boleh nak kena guna alamat Sg sahaja. Yg lagi kesian ada member2 kita beli moto Sg ngan runner nama tak ada dlm geran cuma ada kat insurans cover note je itu pun jadi 2nd rider or authorised rider..dalam geran pun guna nama org S'pore. Sampai hati runner tu buat depa mcm tu.
There’s nothing like a major sporting event to stir the blood: The World Series, Super Bowl, Stanley Cup Finals, NBA Finals, World Cup or a good prize fight. By matching the new 2003 Honda ST1300 with Yamaha’s new FJR1300, we have motorcycling’s equivalent of a good light-heavyweight fight.
Going toe-to-toe here are two new models, each with a proud lineage. Each wants the title, and carries a load of the good technical stuff. They float like butterflies, sting like B-52s. Both are at the top of their game.
The 2003 Honda ST1300 ABS and Yamaha FJR1300 utilize different styles, like the classic boxer-vs.-puncher bout. The ABS-model Honda enters this fray wielding technology and tonnage to spare. Its focus is on luxurious long-distance comfort through adjustable rider seating, a huge range of windshield adjustability, anti-lock linked braking and suspension quality. Yamaha’s strategy is a hard-edged road burner with a less-is-more philosophy: more brute power, but less in terms of weight, price and level of luxury. The more Spartan Yamaha’s only counter to the above is an electric windshield, albeit one that offers much less range and protection. We’ll provide the front-row seat as to which bike works best for your needs.
Because we’ve already covered each of these new machines extensively in recent road tests, the FJR1300 in the August 2002 edition and the ST1300 the following month, here we’ll start with a brief review, then take them on the road to let them slug it out.
Rider Report
Lineage
The Honda ST1300 is an update of the ST1100 that first appeared as a 1990 model and, with revisions, lasted through 2002. It was known for its smooth power, supple suspension, major avoirdupois, 7.4-gallon fuel tank and high gearing. Though still powered by a longitudinal, liquid-cooled DOHC, four-valve V-4, the new ST1300 now displaces 1,261cc with a 10.8:1 compression ratio, and utilizes PGM fuel injection.
The Yamaha FJR1300 is an update of the line of big air-cooled, four-cylinder road burners, the FJ1100 that first appeared in 1984, and the 1986 FJ1200 that lasted through 1993. The new 1,298cc model retains the in-line, transverse, DOHC four-cylinder layout with four-valve heads, but is now an all-new engine with liquid cooling and Mitsubishi electronic fuel injection. Both utilize shaft final drive.
Price
Rider Report
Though these bikes are both 1300-class, four-cylinder sport tourers with driveshafts, fairings, removable saddlebags and electrically adjustable windshields, the price differential makes this something less than an apples-to-apples comparison. Yamaha’s FJR1300 is available as a single model with an electrically adjusted windshield for an MSRP of $11,499 (we have heard rumors that for 2004 the standard ‘03 bags will become optional and the bike’s price remain the same or increase). The Honda ST1300 is available both as a standard machine ($12,999), the shield of which is only manually adjustable, and an ABS model ($14,499), which is the one we tested, featuring anti-lock brakes and an electrically adjustable shield. OK, let’s get to work.
Performance
Start them up and each four-cylinder engine is a marvel of smoothness and power. Out on the road the Yamaha feels aggressive, like a big-inch supersport that grew a fairing and bags. The Honda, by contrast, seems designed from the beginning as a sport tourer. Its pleasing mechanical purr becomes a snarl in the upper rpm ranges. While the Yamaha peaks at 124.5 rear-wheel horsepower at 7,850 rpm and puts out 90.1 pounds-feet of torque at 6,700, the Honda cranks out 111.3 peak rear-wheel horsepower at 7,700 rpm, and makes 83.6 pounds-feet of torque at 6,100 rpm. Both have steep horsepower graph lines and hugely broad powerbands, but the Yamaha’s torque curve has some rolling hills in it, while the Honda’s is as flat as Nebraska.
Roll-ons are a good measure of how midrange power interacts with gear ratios and weight. The lighter, more powerful FJR pulls away smartly from the Honda during third-gear roll-ons at 3,000 and 4,000 rpm. At 5,000 rpm, however, the Honda is coming into its power range and hangs much closer. In fifth-gear roll-ons, again, the FJR leaves the ST flat.
While the FJR, with its dual gear-driven counterbalancers, is acceptably smooth through most of its rev range, one high-speed romp left a tester with numb hands. The Honda, also with dual counterbalancers and slightly higher gearing, was always a gentleman in terms of engine vibes. However, excessive driveline lash and engine heat on the rider’s legs were annoyances on the Honda, while the Yamaha’s five-speed shifts well, the Honda’s shifts superbly.
Wind Protection
The first requisite of a sport tourer is long-distance comfort, a balance of wind protection, smoothness, ergo-nomics and seating comfort. Both of these machines offer good-sized fairings with adjustable windshields. The Yamaha’s is electrically operated by means of a thumb-operated pushbutton over a range of 4.6 inches vertically, and a 20-degree angle. While it offers adequate protection, we recommend the optional shield that is 4 inches taller and 2 wider. The standard-model Honda’s shield is fixed in place, but offers 2.3 inches of manual adjustment by repositioning the shield on its mounting brackets.
The shield on the ABS-model Honda is electrically adjustable up to 7.4 inches vertically and a 13-degree angle, and it can also be manually repositioned. As it rises from the low position, the wind at first comes over the top of the shield, then around the sides where it pushes the rider forward. The wind tends to be noisy until the shield’s top is at or near eye level, where the ST1300 rider sits comfortably in a pocket of still air. With its greater height and adjustability range, and because it sits closer to the rider, the Honda’s shield offers greater wind protection.
Seating Comfort
A multiadjustable rider’s portion of the seat gives the Honda rider not only three heights within a range of 1.2 inches vertically, but it also slides 1 inch fore-and-aft and adjusts for slant. We average-sized riders were able to find a very suitable position. The Yamaha, though its seat is non-adjustable, was very satisfactory to our staff, the right blend of cush with firmness, and with a fixed but nicely low height that makes the bike easy to paddle around.
Saddlebags
Both bikes come standard with hard-shell, lockable, easily removable saddlebags, and both look better with their bags in place. Each bag will hold a full-face helmet. Outwardly, the Honda’s bags appear to be larger and more fully integrated into the bodywork. However, what appears to be extra room toward the front is really quite shallow and of little use. The Honda’s also lack hold-down straps.
The Yamaha’s bags appear to be more stuck-on than integrated, yet hold approximately the same amount as the Honda’s and utilize convenient hold-down straps. The Honda’s remove and attach slightly more easily, and their latches work better. The Yamaha’s boxlike shape make them easier to pack. Each has a luggage rack, but only Yamaha offers an accessory top trunk.
Suspension/Brakes
These big bikes just beg to be ridden fast, and for that you’re going to want a capable set of suspenders. The FJR’s fully adjustable 48mm fork is certainly compliant. Its single rear shock offers two-position spring preload, and is adjustable for rebound damping. At very aggressive speeds, you may wish for more firmness and less fork dive. Still, for 95 percent of your sport-touring needs, it’s right where you want it.
The ST’s single rear shock is adjustable for spring preload and rebound damping, and offers a very solid feel with good control and damping. Despite its non-adjustable, 45mm cartridge fork, the ST delivers that rare plush/controlled feel, and throws in remarkable anti-dive qualities to boot.
The latter is partly because of the Honda’s linked braking system; using either the front lever or the rear pedal activates the stoppers at both ends. Through a proportional control valve, the majority of braking force is delivered to whichever brake was actuated with more force. A delay valve in the fork slows initial braking response to minimize fork dive, and it all works very well.
Our test ST was equipped with anti-lock brakes, which of course can be paint-savers (or better) under tricky traction conditions. It provided quick, short, secure stops on a variety of surfaces. The Yamaha’s brakes, though off the R1 sportbike, did not offer quite the bite we wished, and the rear locked too easily.
Handling
Perhaps the most remarkable difference between these bikes is in their handling. The FJR, with its 26 degrees of rake, 4.3 inches of trail and 60.6-inch wheelbase, turns by means of aggressive inputs from the rider’s upper body and pressure on the handlebars. It loves fast sweepers but demands work in tight turns. The Honda, by contrast, combines its shorter 58.7-inch wheelbase with a 26-degree rake and 3.9 inches of trail. These, along with the new lower, more forward-weight bias and tire choice, result in much more responsive, relatively low-effort steering despite the bike being 81 pounds heavier than the Yamaha. With a swing of the rider’s hips the Honda delights in tight turns.
Passenger Accommodations
A major consideration for couples is how well a prospective ride treats its co-rider. A passenger aboard the Yamaha finds a relatively short rear seat that tucks him or her into the rider and forces the knees out to the sides. The seat is firm, and the windblast relatively unaffected by the position of the windscreen.
Rider Report
The Honda’s passenger has roomier accommodations, on a cushier seat, with the feet lower and more relaxed. They experience a similar amount of benefit as the adjustable shield slides up and down. Load capacity is 415 pounds on the Yamaha, and 395 on the Honda.
Range
With these two silver bullets the lighter, more powerful Yamaha burned a gallon every 38.4 miles, while the porkier Honda offered 42.6 miles per gallon on the same ride. With its 6.6-gallon tank the Yamaha offers a very respectable range of 253 miles per tank. A 5.5-gallon conventional tank on the Honda, combined with another 2.2 gallons below the seat, delivers a remarkable range of 328 miles. That should be enough for anyone’s loneliest road.
The Little Things
Two small fairing compartments, one lockable, and a larger underseat area, allow the ST1300 rider to bring along perhaps two pairs of midweight gloves, a U-lock and some road food. It also offers hidden tipover bars, two helmet hooks, a 660-watt alternator and electric headlight adjuster—but no available trunk.
The FJR1300 offers a U-lock/glove compartment, no helmet hooks and a 490-watt alternator. Both have centerstands and catalysts. According to their makers, the Yamaha meets U.S. and California 2006 emissions standards; the Honda meets 2008 standards.
Rider Report
Split Decision
It’s no cop-out to say that each of these bikes is a winner. Which you choose will depend upon your performance/luxury/price balance. If you invested heavily in dot.coms, Worldcom and Enron stocks, and are just scraping by, the Yamaha’s 20 percent price advantage makes it an easy call. It is also the slugger, the sportier of the two, and at 635 pounds wet weighs 81 pounds less than the 716-pound Honda. You can certainly feel that weight as you paddle around the parking lot, but in turns it’s less of a factor.
If on the other hand you like sporty riding but have come to prefer it mixed with some degree of luxury, as long as you’re willing to pay the price to obtain it the Honda’s quick steering response more than makes up for the weight difference. With its better weather protection and well-controlled, squash-butt comfort, the Honda ST1300 is the finesse fighter.
So what will it be, great performance with some luxury, or luxury with a good deal of performance? If your sport-touring preferences lean toward the former, and you like your bikes leaner, meaner and less expensive, remember these three little letters: FJR. Or if you can justify it, choose the Honda ST1300. Stay tuned for long-term reports on both bikes ASAP.
Keperluan untuk beli motor Singapore 1.Lesen Antarabangsa -boleh dibuat di JPJ di sempadan dengan harga rm150/year -sebelum buat lesen antarabangsa ini,lesen Malaysia perlu hidup paling kurang setahun.So.seeloknya hidupkan 2 tahun(..senang cerita) -tujuan dibuat lesen antarabangsa ini adalah kerana untuk tukar nama motor dan tujuan insuran motor. -kedai motor singapore perlukan lesen antarabangsa untuk motor itu dijual pada kita.
-bawak 2-3 keping gambar passport utk buat lesen antarabangsa ini
2.COE -seeloknya hidupkan untuk 10tahun..kosnya SD1000=RM2360/per 10year
5.Inspection -SD17=RM40/year -pemeriksaan dilakukan di puspakom Singapore(lebih kurang ler..)
6.Kita perlukan alamat di Singapore untuk beli motor Singapore. -Jika tidak ada alamat di Singapore,boleh pakai alamat kedai motor untuk surat menyurat.
So anda sendiri boleh totalkan kos setahun untuk pakai motor Singapore ini.
Source:http://selesamotorsport.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2010-07-14T10:42:00-07:00&max-results=7 Anda perlukan passport antarabangsa untuk memasuki negara singa dengan bayaran RM 100 untuk tempoh 2 tahun, jika beli dengan kami tak perlu buat passport sebab kami yang akan masuk dan bawa motor balik ke Johor. Buat lesen antarbangsa di JPJ berdekatan dengan bayaran RM 150 setahun, sediakan 2 keping gambar berukuran pasport dan lesen Malaysia anda mestilah mempunyai tempoh sah lebih setahun. Sekiranya anda tidak mempunyai lesen antarabangsa pihak kedai motor tidak akan dapat membuat insurans atas nama anda dan membuat tukarnama. Motor dan insuran adalah atas nama anda dan alamat surat menyurat gunakan alamat kedai motor sekiranya anda tidak mempunyai alamat di sana. Perlu diingat anda tidak akan mendapat geran seperti di Malaysia kerana geran di Singapura adalah secara maya iaitu anda boleh melihat secara online di internet. https://vrl.lta.gov.sg/lta/vrl/JSP/errorFrame.jsp?theURL=/JSP/serviceNotAvailable.jsp&userType=P&a=1277231689636
Selain membayar tukarnama, cukai jalan dan insurans anda juga perlu mengetahui bilakah COE motor akan tamat (motor 2nd hand). Setiap COE adalah 10 tahun dan anda boleh renew COE sekiranya telah tamat tempoh 10 tahun. Sebagai contoh sekiranya anda ingin membeli motor 2nd hand tahun 2001 maka anda perlu renew COE pada tahun 2011. Harga untuk renew COE berbeza2 mengikut tahun, mungkin SING 600 dolar atau SING 100 dolar.
Anda perlu membuat inspection setiap tahun untuk renew roadtax dan insurans dan sekiranya anda tidak mahu membuat sendiri(masuk ke seberang tambak) kami boleh uruskan dengan kadar bayaran yang berpatutan.
Yang paling penting anda mempunyai dokumen yang lengkap seperti lesen memandu antarabangsa, roadtax dan insurans pastu boleh memecut tanpa ragu.
Tepuk dada tanya selera, adakah anda hendak menunggang kapcai seumur hidup atau menjadi penunggang superbike....
